Forgoing oxygen aid and fixed ropes, Spanish ultramarathoner Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest early Monday, around midnight. His roughly 12,400-foot ascent from Everest … 6 – Le solo hivernal de Marc-André Leclerc sur Cerro Torre Le grimpeur et alpiniste canadien, décédé en Alaska en 2018, a réalisé en 2015, en Patagonie chilienne, la première ascension en solo de Cerro Torre, performance impressionnante. He most definitely could free-climb the obstacles on Everest as it’s arguably not as technical of a mountain as some others he’s climbed (e.g. Kilian Jornet’s two Everest summits disputed in new book, bad weather forced him to abandon his plans. The 29-year-old Spaniard began at Advanced Base Camp (6,500 meters) and … Photograph: Sébastien Montaz-Rosset/Kilian Jornet: Path to Everest Jornet grew up in a mountain refuge in the Spanish Pyrenees. Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the running world. However, Jornet’s public relations representatives say that, “There is no evidence of an existing FKT [starting from Base Camp], and [so] we are not talking about breaking records at any time, as there was no record to be broken.”. Last Sunday, May 21, he had climbed from Base-Camp (5,100 meters) and reached the summit in 26 hours. Aujourd’hui Jornet a atteint, du camp de base avancé, 8400m sur l’Everest en 6h, évidemment sans oxygène d’appoint. Vidéos à découvrir. Howitt examines every detail of the climbs and of Jornet’s claims. Jornet even tried running a bit in Everest's thin air. The relevant section of the book is by the American mountain runner Dan Howitt, who has analyzed Jornet’s Everest climbs in detail. In alpine climbing of this magnitude, descending can be nearly as hard as—if not harder than—climbing up. According to Howitt, Jornet’s GPS data from May 22 shows the highest elevation reached as slightly higher than 8,500m (the summit is at 8,848m). Directed by Sèbastien Montaz-Rosset, Josep Serra Mateu. However, stomach issues on the upper portion of the climb slowed his pace. “Spanish” climber??? I’m not saying he shouldn’t have used the ladder, but to claim an ascent without fixed ropes while using a man-made ladder attached to the rock (which is the epitome of a “fixed” line), is simply disingenuous. Joe & John: thanks for the correction about the Hillary Step being on SouthCol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwlaVJHZer0 I don’t think many other people can do it, as it is much more difficult than just running. he did it in 5.30 hours. 3:17. Après avoir atteint l’altitude de 8 300 m sur l’Everest (8 848 m), l’alpiniste Kilian Jornet a annoncé, ce dimanche, avoir renoncé à poursuivre différents projets qu’il visait dans le Khumbu, au Népal, à cause des conditions météorologiques difficiles et des risques d’avalanches. He managed to gain the summit considerably faster than the prior attempt, but still shy of a fastest-known time. Both ascents are part of Jornet’s Summits of My Life Project—a goal to set speed records (or, fastest-known times) on seven of the world’s most iconic mountains (not to be confused with the Seven Summits) in “alpine style,” meaning in single-push days using as little gear as possible, including no supplemental oxygen and no fixed ropes. It can be sad to realise dreams, but also an opportunity to come up with new ones. 30 mai, 2017 But his claim to have summitted Everest twice in one week without using bottled oxygen or fixed ropes is very much in dispute. (RIP Uli-You were very inspiring to many of us). Suivre. The most accomplished mountain runner of all time contemplates his record-breaking climbs of Mount Everest in this profound memoir—an intellectual and spiritual journey that moves from the earth’s highest peak to the soul’s deepest reaches. I don’t believe that he does this for the fame (he already has it), but more for the joy of the mountains and because he can. The list includes Mont Blanc, the Mont Blanc Traverse and the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps; Alaska’s Denali; Argentina’s Aconcagua; Russias’s Mount Elbrus and Mount Everest, which sits on the border between Nepal and Tibet. "—NEW YORK TIMES "Inspiring and humbling"— ALEX HONNOLD. The evidence (or rather, the lack of evidence) has now been published in a book: The Rise of the Ultra Runners: a Journey to the Edge of Human Endurance by Adharanand Finn. Again if you feel brave enough look at his video of the speed record at Cervino. #OurEverest Foto: Kilian de tornada a l'Advanced Base Camp, A post shared by Kilian Jornet (@kilianjornet) on May 27, 2017 at 8:55pm PDT. There is no Hillary step and no traffic at all. He reached the summit via the north face of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) following the traditional route. Just want to add one thing. All of Jornet’s other Summits of My Life ascents (with the exception of the Mont Blanc Traverse) have been round-trip affairs. But that is not what he claimed. With a round-trip speed record already out of the question, Jornet opted to stay at Advanced Base Camp to let his stomach recover. According to his website, Jornet is claiming a “new speed record” and a “new fastest-known time” for the May 21 ascent from Base-Camp. He has won some of the world’s most prestigious ultra-trail races (Hardrock 100, Western States Endurance Run, Ultra Trail de Mont-Blanc) multiple times, holds multiple course records and FKT’s (fastest known times), and is one of the world’s most recognizable names in both climbing and ultra-trail running. The May 21st ascent is, in fact, the only known speed attempt via this particular route. Spain’s Kilian Jornet, one of the world’s foremost mountain runners, claims to have successfully ascended Mount Everest twice during a single 2017 expedition. I think it is comical how so many people are knit picking the details of this climb. Kilian is more than an average climber. The 29-year-old Spaniard began at Advanced Base Camp (6,500 meters) and reached the summit (8,848 meters) after 17 hours. Jornet claims to have summitted on May 22, 2017 at 12:00 a.m. (midnight) and again on May 27 at 9:30 p.m. Howitt demonstrates that there are no photographs, video footage, GPS data or satellite smartphone communication from the summit and no witnesses to his having summitted, despite clear evidence that he had all the necessary technology (including a Go-Pro, which has excellent lighting capability, and a satellite smartphone) with him on the expedition, not to mention that Jornet has always extensively documented his climbs, as well as his training workouts, with photos, video and verifiable GPS data. Jornet had planned to climb Everest as the last in his Summits of My Life challenge the previous year, in 2016, and was waiting for a window in Tibet when bad weather forced him to abandon his plans and return to Europe. I wonder to read the story of Kilian Jornet hardship summits Everest twice without fixing rope. Il a terminé son acclimatation sur le Cho Oyu avec sa conjointe Emelie Forsberg le 9 mai dernier. If you speak spanish you can see Kilian explaining his Eiger ascent. Jornet came to Everest in the hopes of setting a speed record on May 21st. Altitude of South Base Camp in Nepal is 5364m (17598ft) and it takes several days of trekking from Lukla to reach, while altitude of North Base Camp in Tibet is 5150m, and you can drive all the way there in the summer months. On Saturday, May 27 Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest from the North side without the use of supplemental oxygen or fixed ropes—for the second time in a week. dh_be. RELATED: Kilian Jornet summits Mount Everest twice in one week without bottled oxygen, [EXPEDITION UPDATE] Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest at midnight of 21st to 22nd May (local time) in a single climb without the help of oxygen or fixed ropes. Foto: Kilian de vuelta al Advanced Base Camp _______________________________________________________ Kilian Jornet repeteix cim a l'Everest per segona vegada en una setmana sense oxigen artificial. Same mountain but completely different route characteristics, thus any record time set on one side would not be comparable in any manner to a time on the other. The running and climbing world held its breath as hours went by without word from Jornet, past the hour he was expected to return. At the extreme example, lets say he prepositioned Sherpas along his way so that he didn’t need to carry any additional safety gear; whether he ended up using their help or not would be irrelevant because it was available to him and therefore affected the attempt. The Hillary step is on the South Col (Southeast Ridge) route coming up from the Nepal side. Des d'allà, va tornar al Camp Base Avançat on està descansant amb Seb Momtaz. Décidément, l’Everest va continuer à faire parler de lui. Ariella Gintzler May 28th, 2017. Per a aquest ascens, Kilian Jornet va sortir el 27 de Maig del Camp Base Avançat (6.500m) i va fer cim en 17 hores en un dia amb molt de vent. Thank you @sebmontazstudio for all your work! Climb from Advanced Base Camp to 8.400m in a bit less than 6 hours. L’ultra-runner espagnol a gravi l’Everest deux fois dans la … In a season that has already seen 10 deaths on Everest, many feared the worst. I’m i really expected to believe that he free-soloed the Hillary Step, or did he use the fixed ropes there for his safety and of those below him? We don’t have a paywall and you don’t have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. In addition, he holds the 24-hour uphill skiing record: 23,864-meters (78,274 ft). Your subscription to our print magazine or donation will help us continue down a path that is uncompromised, and keep the website free for trail runners like you. How about we all just celebrate his accomplishments and be happy we can see history being made. Il y a Michael Jordan pour les basketteurs, et pour les fous d’ultra marathoniens, les coureurs du dimanche et les aficionados de trail il n’y en a qu’un et c’est Kilian Jornet. For 20 years Trail Runner has committed to excellence and authenticity. By the way keep it up !! On Sunday April 19th spectators had a date with “Path to Everest”. Kilian Jornet, 29 ans, vient de réaliser un exploit en réussissant 2 fois l’ascension de l’Everest (8 848 m) en style alpin en 8 jours. Be safe all!!!! Kilian Jornet est un sportif de haut niveau avec des performances de fou mais c’est un humain avant tout. I’ve seen the videos and pictures and none are of the summit……. The current speed record on this particular route up Everest’s North side—the Northeast Ridge, often referred to as “the normal route”—is 16 hours 42 minutes, set by Austrian Christian Stangl in 2006, also in “pure alpine style.” Stangl bested the previous record of 17 hours, set by Italian ski mountaineer Hans Kammerlander in 1996. kilian jornet - summits of my life Le programme de la journée était chargé. While he may not be clipped into the ropes, they are none-the-less still present, and available to be grabbed and pulled on if needed. He reached the summit via the north face of the world’s highest mountain (8,848m) following the traditional route. After five years climbing peaks around the world and completing the historic double ascent of Everest, Kilian Jornet continues to seek new challenges to allow him to carry on dreaming. Everest is not a race…it is an experience! Did he have a separate team carrying safety gear for him, or could he have gotten himself out of most situations that we’d expect a mountaineer to deal with? I can’t and I think many that have commented here can’t either. It gave me nightmares to see how he runs up and down the rock. Kammerlander also did not use oxygen, but did have Sherpa waiting for him at higher camps with food and drink. Get the digital edition of Running for your chosen platform: This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged. En 26h et sans oxygène, "l'ultra-terrestre" Kilian Jornet gravit l’Everest. For this ascent, Kilian Jornet left on May 27th from Advanced Base Camp (6.500m) and it took him 17 hours to the summit in a very windy day. This achievement was set on 8 February 2019. As with all FKTs, I figure everything is fair (fixed ladders, others’ bootsteps, pre-positioned caches, etc) as long as you are clear about how the FKT was conducted. Finn is a UK-based journalist and the author of Running with the Kenyans and The Way of the Runner. Para este ascenso, Kilian Jornet salió el 27 de Mayo del Campo Base Avanzado (6.500m) e hizo cumbre en 17 horas en un día con mucho viento. Salomon athlete Kilian Jornet climbed in a single push the north face of Mount Everest (8.848m) for the second time in a week, doing so without the use of oxygen nor fixed ropes. Follow #summitsofmylife and #oureverest for our news diring the next month! Departure for new adventures! Salta al contenuto principale. However, the Everest performance was disputed in 2019. #OurEverest, A post shared by Kilian Jornet (@kilianjornet) on May 15, 2017 at 9:34am PDT. Desde allí, volvió al Campo Base Avanzado donde está descansando con. After recovering from a supposed stomach bug, Jornet decided to give the speed record a second go, yesterday—this time starting from Advanced Base Camp, some 1,300 vertical meters (4,265 feet) higher than Base-Camp, where he started his first attempt last week. 10 octobre 2019 Par La Rando L’Everest ne laisse pas passer Kilian Jornet. Kilian Jornet a sept ans lorsqu'il escalade le pic de Canal Baradina (2 501 mètres) en 1994. The one person that probably had a shot is now deceased. Bottom line: amazing runner with some amazing accomplishments, but all FNT attempts need to consider the safety of everyone on the trail/route. But we can’t do it without you. And speaking of ladders, lets not forget the ladders that have been placed on the second step at 28,250 ft. It’s 40 meters tall, nearly vertical at the top, and only a handful of the world’s top mountaineers have ever climbed it without the ladder (estimated to be 5.8 rock rating). I’m also looking for more details about what it really means to travel “as light as possible” and not use any fixed ropes. With Kilian Jornet, Sèbastien Montaz-Rosset, Jordi Canals, Jordi Tosas. More information ▶️ blog.summitsofmylife.com, A post shared by Kilian Jornet (@kilianjornet) on May 22, 2017 at 12:07am PDT. Kilian Jornet arrived to Everest base camp with the goal of setting a Fastest Known Time (FKT) for a roundtrip ascent of the world’s tallest mountain from the Tibetan side. As a result, most speed records are only considered for round-trip ascents. Plus sur. #TimeToPlay, A post shared by Kilian Jornet (@kilianjornet) on Apr 24, 2017 at 12:56am PDT. Après les foules du printemps, c’est au tour des stars de courtiser le Toit du Monde cet automne : Andrzej Bargiel va tenter la première descente à skis sans oxygène, tandis que Kilian Jornet, auteur d’un doublé historique versant tibétain en 2017, est annoncé de retour sur l’Everest et aussi sur le Lhotse. il y a 3 ans | 915 vues. The Hillary Step in on the SE ridge route, not the NE ridge; which is the one used for the records and Kilian’s ascent. I can’t see this has been verified he even did this as reported. Más información pronto. Kilian was climbing in China on the Northeast Ridge route. Kilian Jornet (de son nom complet en catalan : Kílian Jornet i Burgada), né le 27 octobre 1987 [4] à Sabadell, est un sportif professionnel espagnol, spécialiste de ski-alpinisme, alpinisme, ultra-trail et course en montagne.. Jornet a été plusieurs fois médaillé aux championnats du monde de ski-alpinisme, notamment en course verticale. Indeed, it is nearly impossible to compare Jornet’s May 21st ascent to Stangl and Kammerlander’s ascents, given their different starting points. 0:54. Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen. The problem is, not everyone in the climbing community is convinced that the mountain runner achieved either climb. Portrait de l’Espagnol Kilian Jornet qui a gravi l’Everest 2 fois en une semaine sans oxygène et sans cordes fixes Le Journal du matin le 29 mai 2017 à 07:00 Kilian Jornet reached the summit of Everest at midnight of 21st to 22nd May (local time) in a single climb without the help of oxygen or fixed ropes. Everest. Jury seems to be out on if it’s gone or just buried, but that would limit the free soloing at the top of the world. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwlaVJHZer0. As an avid reader of stories on mountaineering, I’ll apologize up front if this sounds like Monday morning quarterbacking…. "On this expedition there was a day that I went walking until 8,000 meters and I tried a sprint," Jornet said. The May 27th ascent is comparable to the previous Northeast Ridge ascents, but it is on par with Kammerlander’s 1996 record—still 18 minutes shy of Stangl’s 2006 record, which is the current time to beat. His father was a … He climbed North side from China Signaler. Thank you @sebmontazstudio for all your work! Kilian Jornet au sommet de l’Everest pour la 2ème fois en une semaine ! It remains to be seen whether Jornet will count either of these ascent towards his Summits of My Life project, or whether he will return once more to claim an official, round-trip (Base-Camp, to summit, back to Base-Camp) speed record. Accueil / Courses / Kilian Jornet au sommet de l’Everest pour la 2ème fois en une semaine ! Jornet claims to hold the fastest known time for the ascent and descent of Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Denali and Everest. More info soon. Nepal is country for world record Everest and other high himalaya is in here and being proud to be Nepali with pride of Mt Everest and runner guid of Mountain. Kilian Jornet parle d’une « performance exceptionnelle à la fois physiquement et techniquement ». L'aventure himalayenne de Kilian Jornet ne s'est pas arrêtée : samedi 27 mai, il a atteint le sommet de His climbing partner and photographer, Sebastian Montaz, is known not to have ascended beyond 7,620m. On route to Cho Oyu with @tinaemelie and Everest with @sebmontazstudio . Jornet had already reached the summit on 22nd May but stomach cramps had prevented him from completing the route as planned. Jornet has twice been named Adventurer of the Year by National Geographic. Given the crowds trying to make it up Everest these days, and the known bottlenecks along the route, I sure hope we don’t hear any stories about Jornet’s attempts messing up anyone else’s summit attempt. Not disrespect but I’m a huge skeptic of things like this. I’m not really sure what team could keep up with Kilian, but I’m sure details will unfold. [EXPEDITION UPDATE] Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen. Our acclimatization process continues! Matterhorn). I know many people that have met Kilian in person and I have watched many of his interviews and it is agreed upon that he is one of the most humble and unassuming “studs” around. À suivre. Kilian Jornet gravit deux fois l'Everest sans oxygène en 26 heures. Also, it looks like this year would be a good year to go for an FKT with regards to the Hillary Step. Salomon athlete Kilian Jornet climbed in a single push the north face of Mount Everest (8.848m) for the second time in a week. The fact that Jornet came within a few hundred metres of the summit on both occasions is impressive. BFMTV. He has achieved all but the last two. Both Stangl and Kammerlander started their ascents from Advanced Base Camp. But early on May 22nd, reports came through that Jornet was safe back at Advanced Base Camp, having summited at midnight after a long push through stomach cramps and vomiting. Sébastien Montaz est un réalisateur français qui a suivi Kílian Jornet pendant la dernière semaine de mai. Més informació aviat. I think it is wonderful that Jornet and others set goals relating to FKTs on Everest….my concern is respect for Everest and the dangers is presents may be ignored in an effort to achieve a FKT. Let’s face it, however it did it; there is not many people that can do it much faster. The data from May 27 starts at 8,650m and descends from there. Would love your thoughts, please comment. This article should first of all explain clearly that this kid was climbing the north side from Tibet (China). Surrounded by the mountains and people who are his inspiration, in 'Path to Everest', the mountain athlete Kilian Jornet reveals his most intimate fears, contradictions and passions. Shawn, No more autonomy, Jornet is and was SPANISH!! More significantly it is important to remember that Jornet’s time—and Stangl and Kammerlander’s—are for the ascent only, not the descent. Kilian Jornet va tenter de faire le sommet de l’Everest dans un temps record. Additionally, the claim of being unassisted or not using fixed lines is a bit of a farce. On Saturday, May 27 Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest from the North side without the use of supplemental oxygen or fixed ropes—for the second time in a week. trailrunnermag.com is completely free. From there, he returned to the Advanced Base Camp where he is resting with Seb Montaz. Good feelings today! Picture: Kilian back at the ABC _______________________________________________________ Kilian Jornet repite cima en el Everest por segunda vez en una semana sin usar oxígeno artificial. "Kilian Jornet is the most dominating endurance athlete of his generation. The possibility that the greatest mountain runner in the world did not actually summit Everest twice without oxygen or fixed ropes in May 2017, as he claimed, has been raised before.
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